Bougatsa at Lions Square (Liontaria)

If you find yourself in Heraklion, you must try the traditional Bougatsa, a Greek traditional pastry!

Indeed, many visitors who arrive in Heraklion by boat leave the port and go straight to Liontaria (Lions’) fountains for bougatsa … What a great welcome to the city of Heraklion!

But what is bougatsa?

Bougatsa is a Greek breakfast pastry that comes in various fillings between layers of phyllo (dough). Traditionally there are two fillings; semolina and custard (sweet) or cheese (savory).

Bougatsa originates from the geographical region of Byzantium, which has a long tradition in pies making. Bougatsa became very popular in Thessaloniki after the Greek-Turkish war in 1922, however, over the years, it has become one of the favorite traditional desserts of Greeks all over Greece (together with loukoumades).

Where to eat the best bougatsa in Heraklion: Kir Kor and Phyllo…sophies

In the center of Heraklion, at Lions Square, you will find two traditional “bougatsa” places, Kir Kor and Phyllo…Sophies. One of the most frequently asked questions is: which is the best of the two?

The oldest one is Kir Kor, however, both of them make delicious bougatsa. Do not leave Heraklion without trying bougatsa in any of these two places.

Kir Kor

Kir Kor, right next to Phyllo… Sophies, has also been serving bougatsa since 1922. Kir Kor’s indoor space is tiny, however, there is ample outdoor sitting. Kir Kor is the meeting point of many local people who go there for a quick coffee and bougatsa (of course)!

Phyllo…Sophies

Phyllo…Sophies has also a long story that originates in Asia Minor. Specifically, a young refugee started selling bougatsa in a small shop in Heraklion. Many years later, his grandchildren and great-grandchildren still continue the family tradition of making bougatsa.

The menu of Phyllo…Sophies is definitely more extensive than Kir Kor’s menu and includes more fillings of bougatsa as well as other desserts.

Sweet or savory filling?

That’s a tough question as both fillings are delicious! Overall, kids seem to prefer the sweet filling which is made of custard and has a dusting of icing sugar and cinnamon on top!

• Something quick